Three Beautiful Things

1. Catching sight of Masai men in their distinctive red blankets. They really stand out against the greeny grey mountain scrub. They are cattle people, and the men spend a lot of time wandering with their herds, and perhaps the bright colours help them to spot each other. 2. The campsite on the edge of Ngorongoro crater is home to a wild bull elephant. He just wanders around, grazing the long grass round the edges, drinking out of the rain tanks and occasionally startling campers trying to find the loo in the night. We had to halt supper cooking when he showed too much interest; everyone grabbed a bowl and ran for the truck while Francis clashed a saucepan to scare him off. 3. Lying in our tent listening to the rain. Later on, we heard other things too: we had been told earlier that evening that zebras make a mmmmn noise that ascends in tone; and that lions make a mmmmn noise that descends in tone. It’s funny how mixed up these things can get in your head at 3am. In the morning we foun...

1. The stripes on a wildebeast's neck -- they look as if someone has poured water on them. 2. Marabou storks are not the most lovely of birds -- think insincere undertaker: 'I am so dreadfully sorry to hear about your loss; do peruse our coffin selection.' And then -- I know this is going to be difficult, but imagine a sort of scrotum hanging round their necks. And they have bald wrinkly heads like vultures, too. But standing on a yellow acacia tree in front of a dark storm sky, they are wonderful. 3. Finding a lioness on the side of the road with her nose in a fresh kill. Serengeti National Park, Kenya

1. When border crossings are quick and easy. 2. One of the things I fear about travelling is changing money -- the best rates are from entrepreneurs at border crossings, but they are full of mean tricks like slipping a 100 in a bundle of 1,000s. They might miscount, or they might offer you torn notes. Our leaders have a tame man at the border, however, and we got him on board the truck, handed him the group's Kenyan Shillings and he handed back the equivalent in Tanzanian Shillings, no messing. 3. Swimming in Lake Victoria at the end of the day. The water is cloudy but warm and the waves mean there should be no bilharzia. The locals were bathing further down the beach, so we thought it was probably safe. As we swam, a small crowd gathered to watch. Perhaps we swim differently... Musoma, Tanzania

1. The colour of morning glory. It is the colour of the bits of sky between the stars when the moon is full. It is one of those blues that draws my eye and when I look at it closely I feel as if l am falling. Apart from that I like it because blues can be hard to get with a camera, so this is a time when as a writer I am at an advantage. 2. The clinky sound of charcoal being poured out. You can buy chest-high overfilled sacks from the side of the road. The extra is held in place by nets of knotted grass. We carry it on George’s roof, and there’s a smear of black up the side where our boys haul it up. 3. Watching birds sipping nectar from a tree with bright red flowers against a blue sky. Kericho Tea Hotel, Kenya

1. A secretary bird secreting around. He has long quills tucked in the back of his head and appears to be wearing pantaloons and a waistcoat. He is hunting for lizards and large insects and his careful steps and sudden stabs make him look like a typist. 2. The little birds here are so brightly coloured. The lilac breasted roller has a pea green back and a chest the colour of a washed blackcurrant stain. They have electric blue starlings, too. 3. Warthogs running along with their tails in the air. I’m guessing this is to help the herd stick together -- when you are trotting through the savannah and the grass is over your ears, flags are needed to keep your family together so that predators don’t pick off the stragglers. Other herders use similar tactics: bush bucks lift their tails revealing startling white and black target markings, elephants wave their tails as they walk. 4. A family of white rhino wallowing in the mud. (Picture by Rosey Grant) Nakuru, Kenya

1. Looking out over the Rift Valley. The road to Nakuru follows the escarpment and you can stop at viewpoints to see the vast plain far below. Pushy souvenir sellers crowded round us to point out volcanoes, lakes and a satellite station. 2. Seeing the truck for the first time. He/She (there is some argument over the gender) is called George and will be our base for the next nine and a half weeks. Weighing in at seven tonnes (we don’t talk about the extra half because it makes tolls go up) he will carry us more than 11,000 km, keep our valuables safe, shelter us when it rains and turn into a kitchen three times a day. ( Picture of George at Nakuru by Rosey Grant) 3. Discovering that we have a cook travelling with us. Francis will get us food without paying mzungu (this is the general word for white people) prices and he will get up early to start the charcoal burning for toast. Nairobi to Nakuru, Kenya

This is the first of the Africa posts. Also of interest might be Rosey's Pictures and My Pictures . 1. A five-storey building has collapsed in Kenya leaving many people trapped. At the airport we see Rapid UK. They are taking thermal imaging equipment to help with the rescue. 2. Finding another Exodus person in the visa queue. 3. In Africa, everyone wants to stop and chat. You can’t get anything -- directions to the loo, a visa, your passport checked -- without exchanging greetings, giving your nationality and being welcomed to Kenya. Nairobi, Kenya