Red, livestock and night noises.

1. Catching sight of Masai men in their distinctive red blankets. They really stand out against the greeny grey mountain scrub. They are cattle people, and the men spend a lot of time wandering with their herds, and perhaps the bright colours help them to spot each other.

2. The campsite on the edge of Ngorongoro crater is home to a wild bull elephant. He just wanders around, grazing the long grass round the edges, drinking out of the rain tanks and occasionally startling campers trying to find the loo in the night. We had to halt supper cooking when he showed too much interest; everyone grabbed a bowl and ran for the truck while Francis clashed a saucepan to scare him off.

3. Lying in our tent listening to the rain. Later on, we heard other things too: we had been told earlier that evening that zebras make a mmmmn noise that ascends in tone; and that lions make a mmmmn noise that descends in tone. It’s funny how mixed up these things can get in your head at 3am. In the morning we found zebra footprints, which was a relief.

Serengeti to Ngorongoro